School starts in a month, so there's no shortage of work to do to prepare, even though technically I'm still on sabbatical. (And of course, sabbatical is all about work too, just not about teaching at one's home institution.) My main immediate teaching-related task is to get my two fall courses ready to go, although ideally I'd be getting the entire year's courses out of my hair. (Every year I hope to do that before school starts, and every year I fail, prompting a flurry of work at Christmas-time.)
Mind you, everything I'm teaching this coming year is a course I've already taught. In theory, that makes life easier. Well, and indeed it does, just not as much as I'd like. In teaching art history, we use Powerpoint or some similar presentation software such as OIV, having abandoned physical slides around the time I finished grad school. I have never taught a course using traditional slides, although I could have done so had I so chosen during my first years teaching.
The advantage of presentation software is that whatever you've created is available to re-use next time around. This is also, at times, a disadvantage. When I began teaching, I had no access to image databases such as ArtStor.org. Just as my students now often do, I went rummaging around on the internet in search of jpgs to download. In those days much less was available. Fewer museums had put any of their collections online. And, just as today, often the image is not properly labeled, is not of sufficient size to project large, may have poor color, may be cropped without that having been stated, and may even turn out to be somebody's proud copy of a favorite artist's painting. These problems meant that my early Powerpoints had a lot of imperfect images, a problem I compounded by not labeling the works very thoroughly.
So--before each semester starts, I try to go through the Powerpoints, many of which have had portions cannibalized from some other course because after all I might want to show major works by an artist in survey, in a 20th-century course, and in Women in Art--and see what might need fixing. Does the color look right? Is the label complete? Next thing I know, I'm spending hours searching through ArtStor for information that they may not have either, or may have wrong depending on who provided the image to them.
On labeling: not every art historian believes in labeling classroom images, but I sure do--most of my students have no idea how to spell a wide range of foreign names, and I'm not going to write every artist's name on the blackboard at the beginning of class as some of my professors used to. But beyond that, I've learned that my students--mostly aspiring artists--want to know the exact medium, and often how big the work is, and I'd like them to know where these works are. So I work to improve my labeling. And I'd believe ArtStor that a given work by Gabriele Münter is a color woodcut, except that I happen to know it's really a color linocut, which isn't the same thing. And when I see that Paula Modersohn-Becker painted various works on board or on cardboard, I get nervous about information that says oil on canvas, because do they actually know or are they just making an assumption?
This sort of thing is what I fret about when I still have a reasonable amount of time before the semester starts--if there's no time left, I say the hell with it, I'll have to try to fix some things as we go along. But something I have to deal with this semester, which has been an ongoing problem, is that the number of class sessions per week have changed from last time I taught these courses. Somehow this seems to happen to me constantly--that the amount of time per lecture shifts.
When I taught in grad school, we were on semesters, although sometimes I taught once a week, sometimes twice, and sometimes three times. When I got a job, we were on quarters and I taught twice a week. Before long, we switched to semesters, still twice a week but with a different amount of time. Next, my schedule began to rotate between twice a week and three times a week. That was kind of hellish for course prep (I like to divide topics by day, if not by week), so we introduced a schedule that involves teaching three days a week but doing a mix of two-day and one-day courses. I like this new schedule a lot, my colleague a bit less. It seems to work for the students. But it does mean that anything I taught three days a week needs reworking (i.e. everything I'm teaching this year), and the once-a-week course needs to be made less lecture-heavy.
Consequently, while friends who have been teaching longer than I have are astonished that I would need to do more than minor tweaks to my courses, I regret to say that, as usual, I have an unpleasant amount of reorganization to do before the semester starts.
Wednesday, July 25, 2018
Tuesday, July 24, 2018
Šopský salát
Continuing with cool hot-weather dining from Prague, šopský salát is a great and easy option. Now before anyone protests that šopský salát isn't Czech, well no, technically it is not a traditional Czech salad, but it has been popular for decades, and in the past you could find it on just about any Czech restaurant's menu. I looked it up, and according to Wikipedia, it was invented in the 1960s in Bulgaria as part of a tourist promotion, and the English name is Shopska salad. Well, the thing is, this salad became extremely popular throughout the Balkans and Central Europe, so while its origin is not Czech, it definitely became part of Czech cuisine.
According to Wikipedia, it's made from tomatoes, cucumbers, onion/scallions, raw or roasted peppers, sirene (white brine cheese), and parsley. The vegetables are diced and salted, then dressed with sunflower or olive oil, plus optionally vinegar (I am sure I have always had it with vinegar!) and then the cheese is added on top.
The description provided by Wikipedia seems a little vague given that one ought to be able to track down the original version of this recipe. However, it's not necessary to have the original version to enjoy some form of this salad. The version I have been making without any recourse to a recipe simply involves chopping up some cucumber, bell pepper, and tomato into a bowl, pouring some crumbled feta cheese on top, then adding olive oil and balsamic vinegar plus some salt and freshly ground pepper, and mixing the concoction with my fork. Due to the juicy tomatoes, there will be juice in the bottom of the bowl after the salad is gone, but it's tasty on its own assuming you didn't go way overboard on the vinegar. And while usually I find feta cheese somewhat too salty for my taste, in this salad you can use quite a bit and even add salt without making it unpleasantly salty. If you are on a low-salt diet, then of course you wouldn't add any salt, just go with the cheese.
In any case, it's quick, easy, and really good.
According to Wikipedia, it's made from tomatoes, cucumbers, onion/scallions, raw or roasted peppers, sirene (white brine cheese), and parsley. The vegetables are diced and salted, then dressed with sunflower or olive oil, plus optionally vinegar (I am sure I have always had it with vinegar!) and then the cheese is added on top.
The description provided by Wikipedia seems a little vague given that one ought to be able to track down the original version of this recipe. However, it's not necessary to have the original version to enjoy some form of this salad. The version I have been making without any recourse to a recipe simply involves chopping up some cucumber, bell pepper, and tomato into a bowl, pouring some crumbled feta cheese on top, then adding olive oil and balsamic vinegar plus some salt and freshly ground pepper, and mixing the concoction with my fork. Due to the juicy tomatoes, there will be juice in the bottom of the bowl after the salad is gone, but it's tasty on its own assuming you didn't go way overboard on the vinegar. And while usually I find feta cheese somewhat too salty for my taste, in this salad you can use quite a bit and even add salt without making it unpleasantly salty. If you are on a low-salt diet, then of course you wouldn't add any salt, just go with the cheese.
In any case, it's quick, easy, and really good.
Monday, July 23, 2018
Cool Summer Drinks, Czech-style
It's hot out and the thought of a cool drink is very appealing. But let's not think in terms of soft drinks or plain water (although the Czechs do have a cola called Kofola and they do drink lots of water, particularly of the sparkling variety). And let's also leave out beer, because we all already know the Czechs are famous for their beer, right?
Here's a popular option: Limonada. This term does not mean lemonade in the American sense, although lemonade is one possibility if we're talking about limonada. Basically, to make limonada you need carbonated water of some sort and fruits and/or vegetables. For instance, you could mash some red currants in a tall glass of that water.
The best limonada I had this summer was at the cafe in the Veletřní palác (which is the modern and contemporary art museum). In a tall glass, slice lots of cucumber. I'm not sure quite how much--that's up to you--but it was best when thinly sliced. Add a slice or two of lemon or lime, perhaps a little sugar (not much though) and perhaps some mint leaves. Stir it around and mash the cucumber slices a bit. If you wish, add ice cubes. Serve with a spoon or fork for the slices. It's just divine.
Here's a popular option: Limonada. This term does not mean lemonade in the American sense, although lemonade is one possibility if we're talking about limonada. Basically, to make limonada you need carbonated water of some sort and fruits and/or vegetables. For instance, you could mash some red currants in a tall glass of that water.
The best limonada I had this summer was at the cafe in the Veletřní palác (which is the modern and contemporary art museum). In a tall glass, slice lots of cucumber. I'm not sure quite how much--that's up to you--but it was best when thinly sliced. Add a slice or two of lemon or lime, perhaps a little sugar (not much though) and perhaps some mint leaves. Stir it around and mash the cucumber slices a bit. If you wish, add ice cubes. Serve with a spoon or fork for the slices. It's just divine.
Sunday, July 22, 2018
A Few More Changes Noticed in Prague
I've returned home by now, and am mildly embarrassed to have written so few of the blog posts that came into my head during this year's European stay. In the past I was a much more regular blogger.
In any case, I thought I might add on some culinary notes about changes in Prague. I've already mentioned that restaurants are charging more and expecting customers to tip rather than just round up as was previously the norm. But here I'll note actual shifts in cuisine.
Ten or fifteen years ago, most restaurants in Prague offered... guess what... Czech food! Second to Czech food came Italian food in the form of pizza, pasta, and risottos. Here and there one might also find Chinese, Thai, or Mexican (sometimes of very dubious authenticity). And, many years ago, there was a Georgian restaurant. I don't know which part of town the Georgian restaurant was in and so I have no idea whether it still exists. The only other Georgian restaurant I've been to was in Berkeley, and it is long gone.
Now, I was going to say that hole-in-the-wall gyro stands are new, but then I realized that they are not, they are just much more common and often have a sign saying "Kebap" which I don't think was the case before. I am certain, too, that in years past the proprietors did not ask if one wanted a tortilla. When asked this, I supposed they meant pita bread, so I said yes, but although the pronunciation of "tortilla" would have amused Mexicans, the object I received was indeed a flour tortilla. I was surprised and suspected I should have said I wanted bread, except that I had supposed choosing bread would have gotten me Czech bread. And while I like Czech bread, I don't want it with falafel or the like. (I can be something of a purist at times.)
So that's one kind of food that has become much more common. Thai and Chinese and Mexican restaurants too are rather easy to find. I was not greatly impressed with the two Chinese restaurants I visited--not having been to China yet, my favorite Chinese restaurants have been in California. On the other hand, while I didn't sample any of the Mexican food, the sudden prevalence of burrito joints suggests that one can probably get a decent burrito should one desire. And probably a more authentic one than those initially offered at American University's cafeteria back around 2001, which while tasty enough were made by staff who were clearly baffled by the whole concept and worked very slowly to concoct them and then cut them in half and topped them with sour cream and chives.
Something that seems utterly new in the past couple of years is, surprisingly enough, Vietnamese food. Why is this surprising? Well, given that North Vietnam sent a great many of its people to Czechoslovakia back in the 1970s, resulting in a large Vietnamese minority, you would think Vietnamese food would have become a staple long ago. Nope. It remained in the Vietnamese community until very recently. The Vietnamese run (apparently) all of the convenience stores (which stay open late as do those in the US, but which are much more focused on food and liquor than ours) and are famous for providing cheap clothing and suchlike at outdoor markets, but now their cuisine is being discovered.
And I might add that now the Vietnamese have been in Prague long enough (as you would expect) that one finally hears younger Vietnamese Czechs speaking perfect Czech with no accent whatsoever. I'm not sure why I never encountered this years ago, but I did not. Maybe it's a sign of increased connection. There are still plenty of Vietnamese Czechs under forty or so who have a strong Vietnamese accent.
To round out my account of the Prague restaurant scene, I must reveal that it seems harder and harder to find ordinary Czech restaurants. They exist, and it's true that as I spent a lot of time at the library, I was not in a part of town where ordinary fare for non-tourists was readily available other than in places such as the library bistro. But it seemed much easier to find Italian restaurants.
Ah yes. And food at cafes. That's another matter, although not necessarily more traditionally Czech. Perhaps I'll write about that another day.
In any case, I thought I might add on some culinary notes about changes in Prague. I've already mentioned that restaurants are charging more and expecting customers to tip rather than just round up as was previously the norm. But here I'll note actual shifts in cuisine.
Ten or fifteen years ago, most restaurants in Prague offered... guess what... Czech food! Second to Czech food came Italian food in the form of pizza, pasta, and risottos. Here and there one might also find Chinese, Thai, or Mexican (sometimes of very dubious authenticity). And, many years ago, there was a Georgian restaurant. I don't know which part of town the Georgian restaurant was in and so I have no idea whether it still exists. The only other Georgian restaurant I've been to was in Berkeley, and it is long gone.
Now, I was going to say that hole-in-the-wall gyro stands are new, but then I realized that they are not, they are just much more common and often have a sign saying "Kebap" which I don't think was the case before. I am certain, too, that in years past the proprietors did not ask if one wanted a tortilla. When asked this, I supposed they meant pita bread, so I said yes, but although the pronunciation of "tortilla" would have amused Mexicans, the object I received was indeed a flour tortilla. I was surprised and suspected I should have said I wanted bread, except that I had supposed choosing bread would have gotten me Czech bread. And while I like Czech bread, I don't want it with falafel or the like. (I can be something of a purist at times.)
So that's one kind of food that has become much more common. Thai and Chinese and Mexican restaurants too are rather easy to find. I was not greatly impressed with the two Chinese restaurants I visited--not having been to China yet, my favorite Chinese restaurants have been in California. On the other hand, while I didn't sample any of the Mexican food, the sudden prevalence of burrito joints suggests that one can probably get a decent burrito should one desire. And probably a more authentic one than those initially offered at American University's cafeteria back around 2001, which while tasty enough were made by staff who were clearly baffled by the whole concept and worked very slowly to concoct them and then cut them in half and topped them with sour cream and chives.
Something that seems utterly new in the past couple of years is, surprisingly enough, Vietnamese food. Why is this surprising? Well, given that North Vietnam sent a great many of its people to Czechoslovakia back in the 1970s, resulting in a large Vietnamese minority, you would think Vietnamese food would have become a staple long ago. Nope. It remained in the Vietnamese community until very recently. The Vietnamese run (apparently) all of the convenience stores (which stay open late as do those in the US, but which are much more focused on food and liquor than ours) and are famous for providing cheap clothing and suchlike at outdoor markets, but now their cuisine is being discovered.
And I might add that now the Vietnamese have been in Prague long enough (as you would expect) that one finally hears younger Vietnamese Czechs speaking perfect Czech with no accent whatsoever. I'm not sure why I never encountered this years ago, but I did not. Maybe it's a sign of increased connection. There are still plenty of Vietnamese Czechs under forty or so who have a strong Vietnamese accent.
To round out my account of the Prague restaurant scene, I must reveal that it seems harder and harder to find ordinary Czech restaurants. They exist, and it's true that as I spent a lot of time at the library, I was not in a part of town where ordinary fare for non-tourists was readily available other than in places such as the library bistro. But it seemed much easier to find Italian restaurants.
Ah yes. And food at cafes. That's another matter, although not necessarily more traditionally Czech. Perhaps I'll write about that another day.
Wednesday, July 11, 2018
Prague Changes (and Also Doesn't)
As this year's visit to the Czech Republic draws to a close, I ponder some of what I've noticed this summer. I've spent a lot of time here over the years, including living in Prague for close to two years in 2005-2007. And while, naturally, much remains unknown or unfamiliar to me, I notice some of what has changed in just the last few years.
Some of these things are normal changes or trivial; others may be less so. But here are some things I see, for better or for worse. I list them in no particular order.
The construction at Prague's Národní třída metro station is apparently over and a mall stands atop it next to the Tesco department store. The restoration/renovation of the design museum (UPM) is also finally complete and the painted walls and ceilings are impressive! Work on the National Museum continues, however.
Tourists of South Asian origin have discovered Prague. I don't know how many are actually from India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh and how many are from the UK, but in years past one did not see many of them. Since the reviled Roma population also has a South Asian origin (albeit of centuries ago), I do wonder whether South Asian tourists in Western-style dress are ever mistaken for Roma. That wouldn't be very pleasant.
Speaking of the Roma, I have not noticed many of them this year, apart from the inhabitants of a building near the flat I'm renting. I wonder whether Prague has become too expensive for this generally under-employed group.
And yes, Prague becomes increasingly expensive! While the price of books seems fairly stable, the price of restaurant meals is far higher--double or more what it was not that many years ago--and not just in Prague. In the past, you could expect meals in other cities to be much cheaper, just as restaurants outside the tourist districts of Prague were cheaper than those frequented by tourists. Plus there's a change to service not being included in many establishments' bills. Consequently, I haven't been going to restaurants much! The bistro at the library serves decent lunches at an economical price and otherwise I eat yogurt or salads back at the flat.
More problematic for residents than the price of restaurant meals, of course, is the cost of housing. Residents tell me that real estate has gone way up. People are leaving Prague to commute in to work from towns elsewhere. I'm told by more than one person that the Russians are in large part to blame--that as in London, Russians buy city properties and then don't occupy them to any real extent, leaving areas empty and unavailable to people who actually need housing here. Of course, some Russians have settled here permanently just like expatriates from other countries, but I don't think people are blaming those who are making a life here. Presumably the people to blame are those infamous Russian money-launderers.
The English language is everywhere. Not that every Czech now speaks English, but many more do than ever before, and English-language signage is ubiquitous. While that's helpful to many of the tourists, it's also a little peculiar and perhaps just trendy. But one also now finds more English-speakers--whether tourists or expats--all over the city. I feel rather mixed about this. It's nice that visitors may be seeing more of the city than just the major sights, but...
There's also the... shall we call it Disneylandification? of parts of the city. I don't refer to actual Disney characters here, but the way areas begin to resemble an amusement park for tourists. Sure, even ten years ago there were barkers on Celetna calling on pedestrians to stop for Thai massage, but the number of mimes and buskers has become perhaps excessive (although at least they have certain skills--still, if you've seen one guy painted silver appearing to sit on thin air, you've seen them all). This year tourists have also been thrilled to encounter a ten-foot-tall dancing polar bear infesting Old Town Square. I'm serious. Someone (or two or three someones?) actually thinks it's a good idea to don a heavy and gigantic polar-bear costume in hot weather and dance around on the hot pavement, in a city that has no particular connection to the Arctic, and swarms of tourists squeal with excitement and can't wait to be photographed next to the bear. Okay, I guess it's better than bringing back the medieval amusement of baiting genuine bears, but otherwise is this not better suited to an amusement park than to a historic square in a national capital? However, it appears that Old Town Square is now Prague's own free amusement park where the statue of religious reformer Jan Hus is merely the backdrop to benches for the weary watching the giant bear lurch about across the square.
There are other changes to note, but it's always better to pause when my curmudgeonly side comes to the fore.
Some of these things are normal changes or trivial; others may be less so. But here are some things I see, for better or for worse. I list them in no particular order.
The construction at Prague's Národní třída metro station is apparently over and a mall stands atop it next to the Tesco department store. The restoration/renovation of the design museum (UPM) is also finally complete and the painted walls and ceilings are impressive! Work on the National Museum continues, however.
Tourists of South Asian origin have discovered Prague. I don't know how many are actually from India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh and how many are from the UK, but in years past one did not see many of them. Since the reviled Roma population also has a South Asian origin (albeit of centuries ago), I do wonder whether South Asian tourists in Western-style dress are ever mistaken for Roma. That wouldn't be very pleasant.
Speaking of the Roma, I have not noticed many of them this year, apart from the inhabitants of a building near the flat I'm renting. I wonder whether Prague has become too expensive for this generally under-employed group.
And yes, Prague becomes increasingly expensive! While the price of books seems fairly stable, the price of restaurant meals is far higher--double or more what it was not that many years ago--and not just in Prague. In the past, you could expect meals in other cities to be much cheaper, just as restaurants outside the tourist districts of Prague were cheaper than those frequented by tourists. Plus there's a change to service not being included in many establishments' bills. Consequently, I haven't been going to restaurants much! The bistro at the library serves decent lunches at an economical price and otherwise I eat yogurt or salads back at the flat.
More problematic for residents than the price of restaurant meals, of course, is the cost of housing. Residents tell me that real estate has gone way up. People are leaving Prague to commute in to work from towns elsewhere. I'm told by more than one person that the Russians are in large part to blame--that as in London, Russians buy city properties and then don't occupy them to any real extent, leaving areas empty and unavailable to people who actually need housing here. Of course, some Russians have settled here permanently just like expatriates from other countries, but I don't think people are blaming those who are making a life here. Presumably the people to blame are those infamous Russian money-launderers.
The English language is everywhere. Not that every Czech now speaks English, but many more do than ever before, and English-language signage is ubiquitous. While that's helpful to many of the tourists, it's also a little peculiar and perhaps just trendy. But one also now finds more English-speakers--whether tourists or expats--all over the city. I feel rather mixed about this. It's nice that visitors may be seeing more of the city than just the major sights, but...
There's also the... shall we call it Disneylandification? of parts of the city. I don't refer to actual Disney characters here, but the way areas begin to resemble an amusement park for tourists. Sure, even ten years ago there were barkers on Celetna calling on pedestrians to stop for Thai massage, but the number of mimes and buskers has become perhaps excessive (although at least they have certain skills--still, if you've seen one guy painted silver appearing to sit on thin air, you've seen them all). This year tourists have also been thrilled to encounter a ten-foot-tall dancing polar bear infesting Old Town Square. I'm serious. Someone (or two or three someones?) actually thinks it's a good idea to don a heavy and gigantic polar-bear costume in hot weather and dance around on the hot pavement, in a city that has no particular connection to the Arctic, and swarms of tourists squeal with excitement and can't wait to be photographed next to the bear. Okay, I guess it's better than bringing back the medieval amusement of baiting genuine bears, but otherwise is this not better suited to an amusement park than to a historic square in a national capital? However, it appears that Old Town Square is now Prague's own free amusement park where the statue of religious reformer Jan Hus is merely the backdrop to benches for the weary watching the giant bear lurch about across the square.
There are other changes to note, but it's always better to pause when my curmudgeonly side comes to the fore.
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